Uh Oh. SNCF Strike around the Holidays

If you are in France in December and planning to use the trains to travel, beware.

SNCF drivers for the national France rail network have filed plans to strike every weekend in December, including busy Christmas and New Year's Eve weekends. The notice was posted at the blog maintained by FGAAC-CFDT, the union of professional train drivers.

This will present significant problems for everyone trying to move about during a super busy season. A big lump of coal.

Great Gift Idea: winetasting gift certificates for Paris

Olivier Magny and his enterprising vinophile crew at O'Chateau offer a variety of wonderful wine tastings, wine dinners and things-wine. They are expert at sourcing out delicious wines from smaller or lesser-known producers ranging from roses, to a world of whites, to luscious reds. Check out http://www.o-chateau.com/paris-wine-tasting for details on getting you or a loved one a gift certificate.

December Special Tour of Holiday Treats French-style

One of our Paris colleagues is offering a delicious-sounding holiday season tour in Paris. First of all, feel the spirit of Christmas with a special holiday market tour before sampling a variety of regional holiday specialties. Participants will discover traditional French products in famous shops known for their expertise. Taste samples of fine chocolate and other delights, including a few of "the 13 desserts" (artisanal candied fruits, nougat, gingerbread, marrons glacés, Christmas Cakes).

Then experience the warmth of Christmas-tide in a Parisian-style tearoom while enjoying a hot beverage. The guide will tell you about the history of French Christmas traditions.

« Price includes beverage and tastings:
« Monday to Saturday, from 2.30pm to 5.30pm (in December only)
«1 English-speaking guide for a maximum of 8 people

115 Euros per person, 2 persons minimum Contact sally@yourgreatdaysinparis.com

Nov 25 Only... discounts on Paris Apartments this winter

One of our best colleagues in Paris, Haven In Paris, www.haveninparis.com is offering a great 'Black Friday' deal. Only on Nov. 25 you can book one of their lovely Paris apartments for December, January or February (Christmas week not included) for substantial discounts. This beats hitting the malls for sales!

Check out their website and talk with me about planning some fabulous custom shopping or foodie tours. Winter is wonderful in Paris... and airfares are lower too!

Newly Rennovated Orsay Museum Opens

The Orsay, with its stunning collection of impressionist painters, sculptures and decorative arts from the turn of the (20th) century era, has reopened after a thorough renovation. The art is now displayed against a soft grey background, a color palette carefully chosen to highlight the tones within the paintings. The cafes and restaurants have all been redone to improve the visitor experience. It will be wonderful to be able to re-visit all our favorites in this stunning rehab of a grand old train station once again!

And a little further afield, be sure to catch the exhibition of the Stein family private collections at the Grand Palais. Rich in Picasso's, Matisse, Braque and so much more, this private collection is a lovely compliment to the works in the Orsay.

Two Fabulous Classics in Paris: Its good to go back!

I had only one day in Paris passing through from my Pays Basque culinary tour on the way to Istanbul and my upcoming Turkish culinary/cultural tour. The weather on October 14 was gorgeous, late summer warm and blue sky. What to do with one day to choose from this great cities bounteous options... three things, take two good long walks, have a good lunch and later in the day, drink the best chocolate imaginable.

Long walk number one was along the Canal St. Martin, that charmingly winding canal with numerous locks and arched foot bridges in the 11th near Place de Republique. Lunch as at one of my favorite convivial classic Paris restaurants, the Auberge Pyrenees-Cevennes, 106 rue de la Folie Mericourt. This place is a gem. The chef owner and his wife (Francoise) are a very good pair indeed. The cuisine is Lyonnais with some SW France influences (a piperade for an appetizer for example). The very good value 30.50 Euro menu offers numerous delicious starters including classics like salade frisee with lardons and a poached egg, or a salad gourmande with a hefty slab of foie gras, or, poached warm herring. The mains include a massive cassoulet, sausages from Lyon, a beautiful grilled salmon filet with a sorrel sauce and on and on. The desserts are like a who's who of grand-mere's best... profiteroles, excellent tarte tatin, Ile Flottant, sorbets, and more. Portions are generous to say the least.

The cliente is a very faithful group of Parisian gourmands and food loving locals, plus the lucky tourist who occasionally finds this gem. Francoise and her staff keep the place filled with laughter and pay very good attention to their clients. Put this one on your list of must visits. It is authentic, real, and of a dying breed in Paris where sushi shops now seem to outnumber real bistros.

At the end of the afternoon, checking out the Haute Marais, the increasingly hip area north of the Marais propoer and south of Republique, I stopped in at the stunning shop and salon of master chocolatier Jacques Genin. Enjoyed the most delicious cup(s) of chocolate chaud served in a pretty while porcelain pitcher. Lovely texture, rich dark chocolate, absolutely stunning and a steal of sorts at 6.5 Euros. 133 rue de Turenne.

Paris-Angers. A Spirited Day Trip

Check out my story on our day trip from Paris to Angers in the heart of the Loire Valley last March. The purpose: to spend a day immersed in the extraordinary 14th century 'Apocalypse Tapestries', a world heritage treasure. And, to visit a magnificent contemporary series of tapestries created by 20th century painter Jean Lurcat called "Le Chant du Monde". This excellent day was part of my new Paris Through Eyes of Faith trip but is easy to do on your own.

Read the story on Bonjour Paris where there are also some gorgeous images.

http://www.bonjourparis.com/story/paris-day-trip-to-angers-apocalypse-tapestries/

Angers is well worth more than a day of course. It is a sympathique small city with good bistros and wine bars. It is near some very good wine growing areas in the Loire Valley like Saviennieres. But these two sets of tapestries are reason enough to go. Stunning.