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Salt Beyoglu, #11 Istiklal Cd. is one of my favorite contemporary art venues in Istanbul. This multi-floored building hosts several exhibitions at any one time and is always 'out there' in the most honest, exploratory sense of contemporary art and inventiveness. There is also a theater which screen films and other media. Free admission. Make it a point to stop in. Artistic freedom is increasingly important to pro-actively support in Turkey.
Just about right across the street is one of KOC University's buildings. There is a small gallery in the rear left side of the ground floor (free admission) that always seems to have a thought provoking photography exhibition exploring Turkey's cultural heritage. Having this and the edgier SALT so close by is wonderful.
Note that SALT Galata is a second SALT exhibition and research center in Karakoy, closer to the Bosphorus shores. 11 Bankalar Cd. This SALT, in a restored Ottoman Bank building also has beautiful views over to the old city.
Enter this link in your browser for an interesting article on the SALT galleries.
http://www.theguideistanbul.com/location/salt-beyo%C4%9Flu
Tuesday, June 21, 2016
Thursday, June 16, 2016
Kumkapi. A World of Tastes in Istanbul
One of the many great pleasures of Istanbul is enjoying the vast range of flavors and tastes. As the city rockets forward many of the atmospheric older neighborhoods are modernizing in ways that aren't all wonderful. Character is lost, small shops close, food carts disappear, authentic tastes get watered down. Kumkapi, a densely jumbled quarter in the Old City near the Bosphorus shores is a great little neighborhood to loose yourself in for a few hours.
Culinary Backstreets www.culinarybackstreets.com just posted an excellent piece on Kumkapi. Check this out, and you might also want to book a foodie walk in Istanbul or buy their app on delicious 'real' places to eat all over Istanbul.
http://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2016/kumkapi/
Culinary Backstreets www.culinarybackstreets.com just posted an excellent piece on Kumkapi. Check this out, and you might also want to book a foodie walk in Istanbul or buy their app on delicious 'real' places to eat all over Istanbul.
http://culinarybackstreets.com/cities-category/istanbul/2016/kumkapi/
Andalucia. One More Time With Sally & Sam
If you have always wanted to explore the glorious south of Spain, sunny Andalucia, consider a ten day very small group tour with me and my Seville-based colleague, Sam Lister of Tailormade Andalucia, in late April of 2017. Travelers remain deeply interested in Spain and Andalucia is a top destination with its superb flamenco tradition, delicious food, wine and tapas, exquisite buildings remaining from Spain's Golden Age such as the Alhambra & the great Mezquita in Cordoba.
Andalucia is home to beguiling small cities like Seville, Granada, Cadiz, Jerez de la Frontera (home of Sherry wines), Cordoba, Carmona.... and to beautiful 'white towns' like Ronda. And the food artisans, wine makers and olive oil producers are non-pareil. We will be experiencing all of this and more... the details of the tour will be announced by early July. Ten people maximum.
Take this opportunity. It will be a delightful immersion in a wonderfully beguiling part of Spain.
Call or email me if you have any questions please. 781 391 6183 or s.peabody@verizon.net
Andalucia is home to beguiling small cities like Seville, Granada, Cadiz, Jerez de la Frontera (home of Sherry wines), Cordoba, Carmona.... and to beautiful 'white towns' like Ronda. And the food artisans, wine makers and olive oil producers are non-pareil. We will be experiencing all of this and more... the details of the tour will be announced by early July. Ten people maximum.
Take this opportunity. It will be a delightful immersion in a wonderfully beguiling part of Spain.
Call or email me if you have any questions please. 781 391 6183 or s.peabody@verizon.net
Tuesday, May 24, 2016
Greece and the Netherlands
I've spent most of April and early May traveling, personally, not with a small group, in the Netherlands and in Greece. In the Netherlands I reacquainted myself with Amsterdam and its world-class museums. I loved the multi-cultural Albert Cuypmarkt market area and its affordable restaurants, including Albina, a Surinamese find. I agree that the best Appeltarte is served a the convivial Cafe Winkel just off the Nordmarkt square. We were able to get tickets for the landmark Hieronymous Bosch exhibition in Den Bosch and it was stunning. Loved Haarlem and the zillions of tulips at the Keukenhof gardens.
The main purpose of our trip was to explore the Peloponnese penninsula in Greece for 12 days. This is an area of Greece that seems to be mostly visited by Greeks, other than the occasional tours coming to see Epidaurous or Mycenae, two outstanding ancient sites. We loved those but also loved ancient Corinth, the 'Cyclopean' walls of Tiryns and various other smaller ancient sites we discovered along the way. Hill top Mystras is a wonderland of Byzantine Churches (near Sparta) and as you work down to the isolated, rocky Mani penninsula at the very bottom of the Peloponnese the scenery is rugged, wild and absolutely beautiful. Napflio is a lovely small Renaissance era city with a big harbor and nice nearby beaches.
Very convivial, pretty town to spend a few days in. Gytheio, further down the penninsula is a cute small town on the water with multi-coloured buildings and some nice small hotels and good fish restaurants. Unpretentious and welcoming. One of the finds of the trip was the Eumelia Farm and Agriturismo where the young owners are endeavoring to build a completely environmentally sustainable farm and also a locavore network of high quality artisanal food producers. They have olive and fruit trees at Eumelia and the setting, in a plateau of ancient olive trees ringed by mountains, is simply glorious. Eumelia also hosts yoga retreats and can host small groups so if you want a tranquil get away with superb local uber-fresh food check this place out.
Medieval Monemvasia on the eastern coast of the Peloponnese is a magical walled town set on a huge rock... the Gibraltar of Greece. Good wineries nearby too.
Then, four days in Athens and four days on lovely, unspoiled Milos in the Cyclades chain of islands. Lots of sun, too much good food and wine. And many good conversations about Greece's political issues and the European Union. A great trip all in all.
The main purpose of our trip was to explore the Peloponnese penninsula in Greece for 12 days. This is an area of Greece that seems to be mostly visited by Greeks, other than the occasional tours coming to see Epidaurous or Mycenae, two outstanding ancient sites. We loved those but also loved ancient Corinth, the 'Cyclopean' walls of Tiryns and various other smaller ancient sites we discovered along the way. Hill top Mystras is a wonderland of Byzantine Churches (near Sparta) and as you work down to the isolated, rocky Mani penninsula at the very bottom of the Peloponnese the scenery is rugged, wild and absolutely beautiful. Napflio is a lovely small Renaissance era city with a big harbor and nice nearby beaches.
Very convivial, pretty town to spend a few days in. Gytheio, further down the penninsula is a cute small town on the water with multi-coloured buildings and some nice small hotels and good fish restaurants. Unpretentious and welcoming. One of the finds of the trip was the Eumelia Farm and Agriturismo where the young owners are endeavoring to build a completely environmentally sustainable farm and also a locavore network of high quality artisanal food producers. They have olive and fruit trees at Eumelia and the setting, in a plateau of ancient olive trees ringed by mountains, is simply glorious. Eumelia also hosts yoga retreats and can host small groups so if you want a tranquil get away with superb local uber-fresh food check this place out.
Medieval Monemvasia on the eastern coast of the Peloponnese is a magical walled town set on a huge rock... the Gibraltar of Greece. Good wineries nearby too.
Then, four days in Athens and four days on lovely, unspoiled Milos in the Cyclades chain of islands. Lots of sun, too much good food and wine. And many good conversations about Greece's political issues and the European Union. A great trip all in all.
Coffee and perfect 'Chou' on the Ile St. Louis
La Maison du Chou, a gem of a specialist bakery on the Place du Furstemburg in the 6th has opened a second branch on the Ile de la Cité. Specializing in chou, or puff pastry 'cream puffs' this beautiful little shop is well worth a stop. They fill the cream puffs when ordered to assure maximum freshness. The cream is made with fromage blanc, vanilla and other goodies keeping sugar to a minimum and flavor to a maximum. The shop offers a full range of quality coffees to accompany that delicious pastry.
Perfect for a spring stroll!
La Maison du Chou – Saint Louis
5 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 Paris
Metro Pont Marie (line 7) or Cité (line 4)
Perfect for a spring stroll!
La Maison du Chou – Saint Louis
5 Rue Jean du Bellay, 75004 Paris
Metro Pont Marie (line 7) or Cité (line 4)
Friday, April 1, 2016
Ephemeral cooking classes with Alain Ducasse
Bonjour Paris, an excellent free weekly e-news posting about Paris just published a story about several one of a kind and one time only cooking classes at concept shop L'Eclaireur in partnership with Alain Ducasse. These will surely sell out very quickly. Here is the link... price is 240 E per class, they are in early April on various dates, and you must call to register. Attendance is limited.
https://bonjourparis.com/culinary-classes/alain-ducasse-cooking-classes-famed-leclaireur-concept-store/
https://bonjourparis.com/culinary-classes/alain-ducasse-cooking-classes-famed-leclaireur-concept-store/
Trip Advisor Picks Istanbul #2 Destination in the WORLD for 2016
Trip Advisor has released its list of top ten destinations for 2016. London is #1, Istanbul is #2. Istanbul's tourism has taken a massive hit from the slow down in tourists from Russia and from the west due to concerns about safety. While there are never guarantees of safety in our chaotic world, Istanbul is, at present, a city without lines for the major sites and the entire guiding and hospitality industry is more than available to be of help in crafting a magical experience. Talk with me about guides, activity clusters, foodie walks, cooking classes, shopping and more.
While I would not travel to the southeast and to the cities along the Syrian border now, certainly the Istanbul area, the Aegean coast with its world class archaeological sites, Cappadocia and the Mediterranean coast with its blue cruises and splendid beach towns are all pretty good bets for a terrific vacation in a hospitable country with excellent food to boot!
Watch Turkish Airlines for fare sales. They offer very competitive rates. I'm a big fan of their nonstop to Istanbul from Boston. Just in case you are curious, here are TripAdvisor's top 10.
Top 2016 Travelers' Choice Destinations
While I would not travel to the southeast and to the cities along the Syrian border now, certainly the Istanbul area, the Aegean coast with its world class archaeological sites, Cappadocia and the Mediterranean coast with its blue cruises and splendid beach towns are all pretty good bets for a terrific vacation in a hospitable country with excellent food to boot!
Watch Turkish Airlines for fare sales. They offer very competitive rates. I'm a big fan of their nonstop to Istanbul from Boston. Just in case you are curious, here are TripAdvisor's top 10.
Top 2016 Travelers' Choice Destinations
1. London
2. Istanbul
3. Marrakech, Morocco
4. Paris
7. Rome
9. New York
10. Ubud, Indonesia
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