Two Fabulous Classics in Paris: Its good to go back!

I had only one day in Paris passing through from my Pays Basque culinary tour on the way to Istanbul and my upcoming Turkish culinary/cultural tour. The weather on October 14 was gorgeous, late summer warm and blue sky. What to do with one day to choose from this great cities bounteous options... three things, take two good long walks, have a good lunch and later in the day, drink the best chocolate imaginable.

Long walk number one was along the Canal St. Martin, that charmingly winding canal with numerous locks and arched foot bridges in the 11th near Place de Republique. Lunch as at one of my favorite convivial classic Paris restaurants, the Auberge Pyrenees-Cevennes, 106 rue de la Folie Mericourt. This place is a gem. The chef owner and his wife (Francoise) are a very good pair indeed. The cuisine is Lyonnais with some SW France influences (a piperade for an appetizer for example). The very good value 30.50 Euro menu offers numerous delicious starters including classics like salade frisee with lardons and a poached egg, or a salad gourmande with a hefty slab of foie gras, or, poached warm herring. The mains include a massive cassoulet, sausages from Lyon, a beautiful grilled salmon filet with a sorrel sauce and on and on. The desserts are like a who's who of grand-mere's best... profiteroles, excellent tarte tatin, Ile Flottant, sorbets, and more. Portions are generous to say the least.

The cliente is a very faithful group of Parisian gourmands and food loving locals, plus the lucky tourist who occasionally finds this gem. Francoise and her staff keep the place filled with laughter and pay very good attention to their clients. Put this one on your list of must visits. It is authentic, real, and of a dying breed in Paris where sushi shops now seem to outnumber real bistros.

At the end of the afternoon, checking out the Haute Marais, the increasingly hip area north of the Marais propoer and south of Republique, I stopped in at the stunning shop and salon of master chocolatier Jacques Genin. Enjoyed the most delicious cup(s) of chocolate chaud served in a pretty while porcelain pitcher. Lovely texture, rich dark chocolate, absolutely stunning and a steal of sorts at 6.5 Euros. 133 rue de Turenne.

Paris-Angers. A Spirited Day Trip

Check out my story on our day trip from Paris to Angers in the heart of the Loire Valley last March. The purpose: to spend a day immersed in the extraordinary 14th century 'Apocalypse Tapestries', a world heritage treasure. And, to visit a magnificent contemporary series of tapestries created by 20th century painter Jean Lurcat called "Le Chant du Monde". This excellent day was part of my new Paris Through Eyes of Faith trip but is easy to do on your own.

Read the story on Bonjour Paris where there are also some gorgeous images.

http://www.bonjourparis.com/story/paris-day-trip-to-angers-apocalypse-tapestries/

Angers is well worth more than a day of course. It is a sympathique small city with good bistros and wine bars. It is near some very good wine growing areas in the Loire Valley like Saviennieres. But these two sets of tapestries are reason enough to go. Stunning.

La Semaine du Gout.. Good Tastes in Paris

October is a busy month in Paris... the Fete de Vendanges in Montmartre, Les Nuits Blanches, and, a week of culinary celebrations during La Semaine du Gout among others.
Check out the 'Village Europeen' on the Esplanade at Invalides from 10-8 October 12 to 14 to tour ateliers of varied European Nations celebrating their cuisines. And, in the 7th arrondissement, along the rue Cler, Motte Piquet and St. Dominique, brasseries and restaurants will set up "Tables dans le rue" where you can enjoy good food and wine at communal tables. The website is: http://foodcultureeurope.eu/#

Annual Paris Antiques Fair, Versailles Fountains Show

The annual very large Paris Antiques and Art Fair will be 'on' at the Palais de Congres from September 24 through October 3. If this show is beyond your budget, dreams are of course, complimentary.

Another lovely fall activity is a trip out to the Chateau of Versailles. The noted "Grands Eaux Musicales" fountains/music shows remain 'on' on Saturdays and Sundays through October 30. There is an extra admission for these well worth the time and money fountain shows.

www.chateauversailles-spectacles.fr/spectacle.php?spe=1&lang=eng

Ultra Contemporary Art in Paris-- ArtBus

October 1 is the annual Nuits Blanche event where contemporary art installations, concerts, performances and more sprout up all over Paris and people enjoy, well, all night if they wish to.

ArtBus is offering an excellent looking minibus tour of selected 'ultracontemporary' artists and their expositions in spaces as varied as pop up galleries or art bookstores, in private apartments or on public squares. From 11-5 on Saturday Oct. 1 this is a preview of selected events for the Nuit Blanche. The tour will also get you to lots of off the radar venues. A great idea!

www.art-process.com Call or email to register well in advance.

Ferreting Out Delicious Chocolate in Istanbul

It's not Paris, but, you may enjoy my article on finding delicious chocolate in Istanbul just published on Chocolate Atlas.

http://www.chocolateatlas.com/L2Other/79Peabody_Istanbul/Chocolate_Istanbul.html

And if a sojurn in the magnificent city of Istanbul interests you, or a small group tour for culinary and cooking experiences or, exploring wonderfully diverse regions of Turkey appeals, take a look at my new website www.turkishjourneys.com

Cezanne and Fra Angelico Shows in Paris This Fall

Paris has 90 plus museums and monuments. How do you get to see them all! Beyond the always worth a visit Louvre, Orsay, Pompidou, there are many great options. And in addition to the national museums, and City of Paris Museums, there are small gems that are privately run. Check these two out this fall:

The beautiful mansion that houses the Jacquemart-Andre museum at 158 Blvd Haussmann in the 8th is featuring a show called Fra Angelico and the Masters of Light. If you go, be sure to have lunch in the 'tea room' or enjoy an afternoon patisserie and tea. This was once the mansion's elegant dining room and it is a lovely space to relax. www.culturespaces.com September 23 to Jan. 16.

The recently renovated Museé du Luxembourg on the edge of the ever beautiful Luxembourg Gardens, 19 rue de Vaugirad in the 6th, is another wonderful small museum. From October 10 to Feb. 26 the exhibition will be on Cezanne's work. www.museeduluxembourg.fr