Paris in the Springtime...

Springtime in Paris. The stuff of song and romance. I revisited a favorite haunt, the lovely Galleries Vivienne, off the Palais Royal and the rue de Petits Champs. This 1890's era passage couvert is one of the prettiest of these historic 'shopping malls' that still remain vital in Paris. Among the shops and galleries in the passage, here are some favorites. Lucien Legrand Filles et Fils is a beautiful small worth-the-journey winebar and shop, selling regional French wines, brandys and Eau de Vies for generations. Great for a winebar lunch and for picking up a special bottle or two. Legrand's adjoining Epicerie is a sweet little store chock full of jams, mustards, candies, oils and more. Great for gifts. There are numerous wonderful one of a kind shops in the Galleries Vivienne including those focused on fashion, kids toys, art, homewares, even antique postcards. If you have the slightest interest in superb scarves and shawls be sure to visit Wolff et Descourthis to be smitten by the intricately designed and coloured silk offerings. Gorgeous is just a starting point!


Lunch can be enjoyed at Lucien Legrand, at the Bistrot Vivienne, or A Priori Thé, a cute little salon du thé that is a great stop for afternoon tea and patisserie as well.

Oysters and a crisp white wine are Winter weekend bliss

Here is one of my favorite off the beaten path spots, particularly on Saturdays and Sundays. Le Baron Bouge, 1 Theophile Roussel, just steps from the lively Place d'Aligre market and rue d'Aligre market street, is a gem of a winebar. A true 'market bar' of the unfussy sort, shoppers and lucky neighborhood residents spill into the Baron Bouge after marketing to enjoy a glass of wine from a good long list, share a cheese or charcuterie platter and enjoy conversation. There are very few places to sit be forewarned! This is a place to stow those shopping bags, find a corner of an upended wine barrel and soak up the atmosphere. In winter, there is a particular treat in store. On winter weekends an oysterman from Cap d'Archachon (near Bordeaux) sets up long tables outside the Baron Bouge and sells platters of oysters (3 sizes) at prices that border on charitable. You can also buy unopened oysters to take away. A douzaine or half douzaine, some rye bread and butter, a glass of dry white wine and change remaining in your pocket. Heaven indeed. Nearest metro is Ledru Rollin. About a 10 minute walk into the 11th beyond Bastille.