Two Fabulous Classics in Paris: Its good to go back!

I had only one day in Paris passing through from my Pays Basque culinary tour on the way to Istanbul and my upcoming Turkish culinary/cultural tour. The weather on October 14 was gorgeous, late summer warm and blue sky. What to do with one day to choose from this great cities bounteous options... three things, take two good long walks, have a good lunch and later in the day, drink the best chocolate imaginable.

Long walk number one was along the Canal St. Martin, that charmingly winding canal with numerous locks and arched foot bridges in the 11th near Place de Republique. Lunch as at one of my favorite convivial classic Paris restaurants, the Auberge Pyrenees-Cevennes, 106 rue de la Folie Mericourt. This place is a gem. The chef owner and his wife (Francoise) are a very good pair indeed. The cuisine is Lyonnais with some SW France influences (a piperade for an appetizer for example). The very good value 30.50 Euro menu offers numerous delicious starters including classics like salade frisee with lardons and a poached egg, or a salad gourmande with a hefty slab of foie gras, or, poached warm herring. The mains include a massive cassoulet, sausages from Lyon, a beautiful grilled salmon filet with a sorrel sauce and on and on. The desserts are like a who's who of grand-mere's best... profiteroles, excellent tarte tatin, Ile Flottant, sorbets, and more. Portions are generous to say the least.

The cliente is a very faithful group of Parisian gourmands and food loving locals, plus the lucky tourist who occasionally finds this gem. Francoise and her staff keep the place filled with laughter and pay very good attention to their clients. Put this one on your list of must visits. It is authentic, real, and of a dying breed in Paris where sushi shops now seem to outnumber real bistros.

At the end of the afternoon, checking out the Haute Marais, the increasingly hip area north of the Marais propoer and south of Republique, I stopped in at the stunning shop and salon of master chocolatier Jacques Genin. Enjoyed the most delicious cup(s) of chocolate chaud served in a pretty while porcelain pitcher. Lovely texture, rich dark chocolate, absolutely stunning and a steal of sorts at 6.5 Euros. 133 rue de Turenne.

Hot and Hip in the 'Haut' Marais

Just in case you have a craving for tacos, tostadas and freshly made guacamole during your next gastro-swing through Paris, stop in at the tiny (10-12 seats) taqueria Candelaria on the rue Saintonge. There is Mexican food in Paris but most Mex-fans would not rave about it's authenticity or quality. Candelaria is the real deal and is gaining quite the local following. There is a 9.50 formule and you can also order a la carte as you wish. The chocolate brownies are rumored to be very good too.

This area of the Marais has been steadily getting hipper and fuller of new shops, bistros, interesting places. Candelaria is a great addition to that mix.


Candelaria. 52 rue Saintonge, Paris 3. Metro: Filles Calvaire
Open 7 days, 12PM-11PM Sunday to Wed., 12PM-12AM Thursday to Saturday

Exploring the Canal St. Martin

The Canal St. Martin is atmospheric, a lazy canal largely for barges and the occassional sight-seeing boat heading to and from La Villette in the 19th from the Seine in central Paris. The canal has lovely broad quais, increasingly hip shops and cafes lining its banks, arched footbridges, leafy small gardens and generally, an interesting ambience.

The Canal goes underground several blocks up Boulevard Richard Lenoir from Bastille and its last length to the Seine is through a softly lit tunnel. But mostly the Canal is a splendid walk for a lazy hour or two in a still very real feeling section of Paris.

Check out the classic Quay-side cafe Chez Prune on Quai de Valmy or have an excellent 14 E three course menu at La Marine also on Quai de Valmy at #55. (Menu weekdays only at 14 E). Across the canal, the Pouya Iranian Cultural Center is an intimate oasis for lovely spiced teas or saffron flavored icecream.

Bring your camera, walk and take time to settle in and enjoy this vibrant quarter centered on this charming canal. Best metro stops nearby are Jacques Bonsergent or Republique. This is the 10th arrondissement.